Umbria part 3

Perugia

Perugia is the capital of the Region Umbria and the same name province with short cut as PG. 

Perugia is famous of the chocolate Perugino. The very same where it is a hidden small message for lovers. 

A bit like Chinese good luck cookies. 

To visit Umbria is like to dive in the medieval period. Every town and village has its own little secrets and its own character. Lets not forget that before the unifying of Italy due to Giuseppe Garibaldi, these small towns were real nations with their own governments. 

And so was Perugia. At the period of  (Saint) Francis in the 12th century the city was in war with Assisi. And it took Francis to march up to Trevi; to an other nation again, to figure out what he really wanted. 

The view from Perugia to Monte Subasio, where Saint Francis spent one year  to find the meaning for his life. 

Ever since I visited an exhibition of Etruscan life in Venice, I have got this curiosity of ancient cultures, such as Etruscan, Cretan, and old Egyptian culture. There must be some sort of connection. Last discovery was the culture of Sardinian Nuraghi people. They all developed at the same time, with same kind of architecture and they had similar tools to build houses and create art and jewerly. 

And I also discovered something that could be useful today. The only thing that remains from the past, are stones like granite and marble and jewerly. Statues made by iron are to get rusted if in touch with air and humidity. 

old Etruscan doorway

Those houses, where ancient Etruscan people lived were made to last earthquakes  weather circumstances and the use of humans that lived in it. There still are several Necropolis to visit in Perugian area. It is incredible how solid was the ancient cemetery. 
Just one thing destroyed everything: The Roman culture. The very same we still live today. 
We live in a culture that destroys more than builds. 

Perugia is a "real world" to show how many cultures and civilisations have used the city, starting indeed of Etruscan. Roman walls are add to the Etruscan ones, and renaissance fortress just build on top of a mediaeval city. 
To bring water to Roman soldiers, Romans built the city water supplies. 
The so called acquaducts. 

Roman period acquaduct as todays bicycle road. 

To live in Italy and being able to admire this country as an open air museum just for free is a huge privilege.
And just for free I could indeed explore Perugia, passing throughout a passage that leads along the mediaeval city called Rocca Paolina because it was signed by Pope Paolo the III and situated inside these renaissance walls and visit this beautiful city on a top of a hill. 

Medieval town in Rocca Paolina

I can walk, or "swim" as locals say, the long main street Corso Vannucci with modern shops, bars and restaurants in medieval and renaissance styled houses. 
To sit down in one of the bars in main street terraces is not overpriced. It doesn't matter wether I have my "aperol spritz" in a bar filled with locals or in the most touristic area. Price is nearly just the same. 

thirst.be

It might occur that sometimes we don't pay attention to where we are. The restaurant or bar keeper do pay higher price of the area he or she occupies in a main street compering to those in a corner behind "god's back". And therefor prices of drinks and food might be a bit higher. I must admit that I pay that 1€ more for the view and peaceful atmosphere. 
So why not just admire the Fontana Maggiore build by Nicola e Giovanni Pisano at the 4th of November Square, while having some cappuccino and briosce. It was build in the 13th century and although the sculpture maker's name might lead to Pisa, his birth place is still unknown. Together with his son the sculpture was completed in just three years. 
At the same square is to admire Palazzo di Priori, built later in the same century.

fontana Maggiore and Palazzo dei Priori

I have gotten an extraordinary occasion to sit in the Sala dei Notari (Notary Hall) for two days, when the Astrological Association Jayavidia organised an international astrological event in the summer of 2016. Together with the most capable and famous astrologist from the United States, Great Brittain, France and Italy. 

Sala Notari

And to crown the view of man made constructions the maestous San Lorenzo's Cathedral in this very same square built much later than the other two; only in the 18th century and with baroccan style. The main entrance actually faces Piazza Danti. 

cattedrale.perugia.it

I took an extra day off to visit Perugia closer, and in one of the narrow streets just behind the main street I found this gorgeous little wine house  that offers also excellent food. I found it's furnish really peculiar. 

Also the restaurant next to mini metro station, that looks more like a cable car, I had several excellent meals, not to mention the view this place gives. 

And then... Do not forget to eat the cakes. This selection of various cakes are from the bar bakery in the main street just across of Palazzo Priori. 

Diving in one of those medieval narrow streets there are plenty to discover. And just to mention one, there is this Etruscan Well I wanted to visit, but it wasn't  open to the public that day. In the same neighbourhood I found an interesting house instead. I belongs to a marquis Bourbon di Sorbello and besides it's marvellous furniture, still original 

turismo.comune.perugia.it

it has a magnificent view from the terrace 

It appears that the latest Marquis is still alive, around 60 years old and not married. 

Interesting. 

To visit Perugia with time and pleasure, I advice to sleep two nights and spend three days in it. Perugia is also a University City and it has a section to foreign students. Nearly 20.000 students abroad study in Perugia. 

Perugia also has a great source of truffles, and it has a huge selection of fairly high quality wine. It is said that the Umbrian bread is without salt, because they didn't want to pay taxes to Romans to buy salt, and therefor an excellent to taste olive oil. Umbrians are proud of their olive oil that is said to be one of the best in Italy. 

Best period to visit Perugia would be late may or beginning September when the temperature is pleasant. In case you plan to visit in July, plan your trip timing to Umbria Jazz Festival. Most musician travel from one Jazz Festival to an other one, so those that play in Amsterdam for instance, are to be found here too. 

Booking a day trip from a local travel agency it is possible to visit other places near by, including Orvieto and Assisi. 

Car drivers should pay attention to where they park, since Perugia is a narrow place and not all the parking lots are for the visitor. 

Hotel and restaurant prices are among the average. Jus to give you an idea: To eat in outside of big cities, I pay €25-30 that includes starter, main course, bottle of water and a glass of wine. Those that do not like to sit down and spend one or two hours for lunch may opt to a pizza slice that are easily to be found anywhere.