Monday 29 October 2018

Lake Ochrid, Makedonia

To visit Lake Ochrid,

might turn out quite of an adventure, since this pearl in southern Balkan area is nearly impossible to reach by direct flights. At least not from Milan, where I live. 

Ochrid Lake is situated nearly 700 mt. above sea level in south western of Macedonia and 1/3 of the lake belongs to Albania. Ochrid has its own airport, but it looked not well used to me, as only few flights landed in our three days stay in the city. 

I took this trip with my usual company; the Serbian siblings. 
On our way back from lovely beaches in Greece, we headed out to Macedonia. 
The roads from Thessaloniki are fairly good up to Skopje; highway all along towards the capital of Macedonia, after witch there are two roads, both circling around the mountain area. 


photo by author


Once we arrived to Ochrid, round 5 pm, not only we were welcomed by a tropical temperature, but also with warm full summer season touristic atmosphere. It seemed to be quite awkward in the end of September as we heard later on. The weather had been unstable until the day before to our arrival. 

As I mentioned pearls, this area is well known for sweet water pearls, available in several stores in the city. I didn't buy any since I had run out of cash and unfortunately I couldn't withdraw from any of those several cash dispensers. But I certainly will do during my next visit, whenever that might be. Withdrawal using visa and master card works perfectly. My V-pay didn't. 


photo by author




For several tourist around the globe Macedonia is cheap. Just to give you an idea, a fairly rich lunch with some starters and fresh fish soup, beer and water cost €5,50 per person. To visit churches and other monuments, is required a fee that is proximately €1,40. Only wine bought in restaurant is pretty expensive, if anyone wishes to go for a good Macedonian wine. 


Santa Sophia's church; photo by author


Macedonia is known by exporting paprika. The main product made of paprika is Ajvar; so called Balkan Caviar. To make a jar of ajvar is necessary nearly 100 kg of paprika, a lots of hours of work and long cooking period. And of course, a good paprika. 
No. You can't make Ajvar from the paprika you find in your grocery store, unless it is long shaped and fat. 

As I like to travel in places where food is delicious, I have to admit that I had really good meals in Ochrid. Mostly trout from the lake, but also lamb and several vegetables, cheese and wine. One of the things serbs and Macedonians have in common, beside Ajvar is Burak. Burak is a pie with cheese or meat filling and mostly eaten for breakfast, since it could turn pretty heavy for a main meal. Burak can be made at home, if it is possible to find the right main ingredients, and by following tutorials from several websites. 

The colour of the lake is incredibly beautiful; turning from dark blue to emerald green. As in our boat trip to visit the Bay of Bones and the bay of St. Naum. The shore just after Ochrid is filled with several hotels and residences to fill-fill the needs of tourists. As the lake is clean and swimming is permitted, many of these hotels offer sun beds and a place near the beach. 
The Bay of Bones is the oldest village of the lake; the oldest lake in Europe, counts about one million years. This village was probably settled between 1200 and 700 bC and gives to the visitor an excellent idea of how people used to live in those days. All cottages with the lake view. 


Bay of Bones; photo by author


St. Naum used to be a Bulgarian writer and a monk who lived in 9th century, and the monastery was established by St Naum himself. He is also buried in the church. In 16 hundred the Greek school took it over. But this wasn't our main reason to visit St Naum. We headed there to visit the incredible swamp that forms just before the Lake Ochrid. The water temperature is 11°C and its vegetation creates an optical illusion; it looks like its deep only a meter, but its at least 3 meters deep. 
To visit the swamp is necessary to get in one of those rowing boats along the area, rowed by local personal  The tour takes proximately 30 minutes, offering amazing photo shoots and the sound of silence. 

In the third day of our stay, we payed a visit to the fortress that finds itself in the highest point of the hill; the view from there was just stunning. Walking down the hill, we visited the Roman amphitheatre, and three orthodox churches. 


full moon and Macedonian flag; photo by author


In the harbour area is to be seen the statue of St Clement, the father of Balkan cyrillic letters. What I didn't know is that the Balkan cyrillic letters are made to be pronounced as they are written. And has origin from Greek alphabet. This information made me interested to learn them. It could be easy to us finnish, since we also pronounce as we write. 

One of the things a tourist might not know and even think about is to use local beauty services, such as hairdresser or a beautician. I had my feet done and washed and dried my hair by a professional. 
The beauty salon took €15 for bringing my feet back to walking condition and the hairdresser cost me €5. Worth for helping local small businesses. 

To organise a group visit to Ochrid, please do not hesitate to ask info@kairos-travel.eu




Friday 5 October 2018

Milan in one day? No way

Take time to visit Milan

Far too often I keep on reading comments about people visiting Milan, and not getting the kick they have expected. And then figure out they spent one day and with no guide.
That would be like reading a tourist guide about Milan in just one day. Reading. Not visiting.


photo by Carmen Terrazzino,  duomoventiquattro


Milan is not like Florence, or Rome. Nor it is like Venice. Milan is spread out. One part is seen in the area of Duomo Square and some in the area of the Sforzesco Castle. Then there is the ancient Roman area, mainly churches of paleochristian period. Not to forget the Brera disctrict and the Academy of Art. A bit further a new area called Porta Nuova. Again a bit further away, the Isola. In the other side Navigli, Porta Romana and so on.


photo by Repubblica.it


If you plan to visit Milan and you have just one day, You will see about 10% of what the city actually has to offer. No wonder you go home exhausted by walking 10 km and not been able to see the same monuments as in Rome, Venice or in Florence. It would be like comparing Jerusalem to New York.
Have you ever walked Manhattan back and forth in just one day? 


TripAdvisor 


Milan is mainly a financial city, with ancient roman history unfortunately destroyed by several inquisitions. And not only. Milanese people liked to build new, instead of preserving old buildings. That at least until the end of 19th century. Some of those old monuments are still to be seen; thanks to Luca Beltrami, who believed in preserving. 


photo from italia official website


Milan used to be an important centre during the paleochristian period, that's why Milan still have serveral ancient churhes.
As I am atheist and I don't really care about churches as religious locations, I still thing they are the best buildings to preserve art and architecture. Luckily, most inquisitors were intimitated to destroy churches. Not Maria Teresa from Austria thought. To build a new theather, she had no second thoughts to demolish the church that stood in the way of her plans.


photo il Post


Milanese people love aperitifs. Ever since the 80's, Milan speard out locals that offered so called happy hour with some wine/cocktails and little snacks to accompaign. Nowadays you might even get a total meal with a cost of just one drink. 


Photo by Luxgallery.it

I once read an autobiography of a Milanese artist. Actually he is from Sicily, but moved to Milan to complish his studies and stayed as an artist. With little or no money, he succeeded to survive visiting all the different openings of galleries, museums or other occations and thus feed himself. 
The quantity of art galleries also might turn out as a problem, in witch a local professional could be pretty useful.

photo by turismo.it


Milanese people are also pretty money tight. Not like Ligurian ones. It is quite common that Milanese people do not look rich although they might have Ferrari in their Garage. Quite the opposite is to be found in south of Italy, where even the poorest family save a lifetime, to give the most fabulous wedding to their children. Not to mention that golden rings and chains belong to everyone. That is not in Milan, where even the latest family member of a marchese would wear wooden bijouterie in a formal occation. 

But how would anyone come to know all these things if they stand in a corner of Duomo reading that tourist guide, instead taking a local host, or a professional guide. 
It is a great investment of tourist's money. 

To visit well Milan, contact me as I can be your local host

Kairos Travel is specialised to assist larger groups (min 20 persons) of tourist to enjoy Milan and smaller business groups who wish to visit Milan Rho and fair of Milan Centre, offering  transport, concert and restaurant reservations among hotel accommodation.  Bookings throughout info@kairos-travel.eu